Birthdays and Ile St. Louis

Birthday filled weekend.  We celebrated the Mr.'s birthday one last time Friday night with a great dinner at Auguste, a restaurant in the 7th. Thank you Joe and Michele and Uncle John and Aunt Claire!  What a treat!! It was our first Michelin starred restaurant and the French fusion cuisine certainly did not disappoint.  My piece of black cod was cooked to perfection.  And the chocolate souffle - I don't even know where to begin... not to mention that our server translated the entire menu for us.  It was a true fine dining experience and a great memory that we will always have.  

Don Giovanni

We continued the celebrations on Saturday at a birthday dinner for one of our friends at a great little Italian restaurant in the Marais.  A four and a half hour Italian dinner was certainly an experience.  The food kept coming... and coming... It was a great time and we enjoyed the evening with new friends.  

Ile St. Louis and Ile de la Cite

Sundays in the Marais have officially expanded to Sundays in the Marais and Ile St. Louis.  Ile St. Louis is the charming little island that sits right behind Ile de la Cite (the bigger island that is home to Notre Dame).  It has become one of our very favorite spots in Paris.  It is like a little tiny piece of solitude in a city that is constantly buzzing.  The quaint streets that run through the island are always quiet and littered with picturesque restaurants, patisseries, flower shops and boutiques. Not to mention Berthillon - the most famous ice cream shop in Paris.  Perfection.

 Fell in love with this little flower shop.  The most beautiful and unique flowers.

 I especially loved the cotton.

 

I love this little patisserie because it has divine macaroons.  Definitely the best caramel macaroon that I have had so far in Paris.   Delicious doesn't even begin to describe this thing.  A few key factors for a perfect macaroon: temperature (needs to be slightly chilled), filling (needs to be thick) and crunch (not so flaky that it tastes old but enough to give it good texture).  The macaroon from Calixte excelled in all categories.  I have a feeling I am going to become a regular here... 

The Mr. opted for Berthillon instead. He never passes up an ice cream shop.  I must admit I was a little jealous of his choice (even in the -2 degree weather).  I don't think I've ever seen that much real vanilla bean in a vanilla ice cream before. 

And down the street is my favorite little biscuit store. We didn't visit today but the almond cookies are delicious!  They have these all over Paris, but the one on Ile St. Louis is my favorite. 

We walked over to Saint Chapelle after our afternoon treats hoping to get in at least one tourist attraction for the weekend.  Unfortunately, the line was very long so we decided the -2 degree temperature was not the best day for line waiting.  We spent the rest of the afternoon walking around the 5th and 6th. 

We spent some time admiring Place St. Michel, a square in the Latin Quarter right off of the Seine in the 5th.  The larger than life fountain captivates me every time I see it.  The fountain depicts St. Michel, the Archangel, and figures of the four classical cardinal virtues - justice, fortitude, prudence and temperance.  

Only in Paris do you find such creativity.  Now it is back to the real world - time to MOVE! Which means time to pack.  If all goes according to plan, the next blog will be coming from 26 Rue de l'Annonciation.  Keep your fingers crossed!

Whipping into shape

As the one month wedding anniversary rapidly approaches and I reflect on my new life in Paris (i.e. re-reading my blog recipes) I realize that I have prolonged the inevitable for long enough.  It is time to get myself whipped back into shape.  I didn't spend all of that time and effort in the gym before the wedding to stand out as the chubby girl among all of the little thin Frenchies (don't even get me started on the sales women, "So what, you are at least a medium?" Why, yes, I am an American, thanks for clarifying).  Since I don't plan on taking up smoking or an eating disorder anytime soon, I decided it was time for an exercise game plan.   

Luckily, I had a fabulous trainer in Birmingham that whipped me into shape for the wedding and she was nice enough to write the workouts down for me.  It is honestly SUCH an easy way to get in shape and gain muscle tone, so I thought I would share it with anyone else who may also be looking to get into shape.   This is called "interval training" - you get your heart rate up for short spurts of time mixed with strength training over 45 minutes to an hour period.  I did this with my trainer for an hour twice a week and tried to do other cardio (running, elliptical, fast walking etc...) at least 2 or 3 of the other days in the week.  My goal is to exercise 5 days a week (the word goal is key here).

The best part about the interval training is that you can do it at home.  All you need are two 5 pound weights and a mat... or a towel... whatever you have.  Do each workout at least once a week, I usually aim to do it 3 times a week.

Circuit 1 (Day 1) 
5 Minutes of cardio (if you are at a gym, you can just jump on any cardio machines for 5 minutes. I usually run or do the elliptical).  If you are at home, run up and down stairs, do jumping jacks, do mountain climbers, knee raises etc... anything to keep your heart rate up for 5 minutes. I like to pick 5 different exercises and do them for a minute each when at home so I don't get bored. 

Next, do each of these exercises for 1 minutes each (I use my iphone to time myself).

Shoulder press (Stand with feet shoulder width apart with 5 pound weight in each hand, press together above your head and bring back down to shoulder level, repeat)
Squats (with weights in hands)
Jumping Jacks
Bicep curls
Lunges
Pushups (this is the killer!! I do lady style and am still dying after 1 minute)
Jumping Jacks
Jane Fondas - Inner thigh (both legs, 1 minute each - see the video)



Jane Fondas- Outer thigh (both legs, 1 minute each. This is the typical leg lift exercise. Continue to lie on your side with both legs together and raise the outer leg and lower it back down; repeat).
Crunches (mix it up from standard to side crunches)
Plank (dread this one....hold steady for 1 minute)

Example of plank

5 minutes of cardio
Repeat circuit 2 more times

Circuit 2 (Day 2)
5 minutes of cardio. Next, do each exercise for 1 minute.
Dumbell press lying down (press dumbells together over head and repeat)
Crunches
Dumbell rows (lower weight and then lift, repeat - see picture)

Bicycle crunches (hard one!)

Bicycle Crunch Exercise

Sumo squats (holding weights - see picture)

Sumo squats

Reverse curnches (lay on the ground and lift pelvis and then lower; repeat).
Deadlifts

Deadlifts

Crunches
Sidebends (hold one weight in each hand with hands next to ears, elbows at 90 degree angle, then bend over to side and touch elbow to hip, repeat on the other side)
Bicep curls
Dumbell twist (sit on mat and hold weight in front of you, elbow in, twist from side to side; this is the one exercise where a 10 pound weight would be better).
Tricep extensions (Stand with feet hip with apart, hold one weight overhead with both hands. Lower behind your head and bring back up; repeat)
5 minutes of cardio
Repeat 2 more times

Birthday Celebration on Avenue Foch

Yesterday the Mr. turned 27.  We celebrated by cooking an American dinner - pulled pork po-boys, baked beans (sort of) and french fries.  Since Gambinos (New Orleans bakery) does not ship chocolate Doberge cakes overseas, I had to come up with an alternative for the birthday cake (the Mr. LOVES Doberge cake - see wedding photo of us cutting the Doberge groomsmen cake).  At first, I thought surely I could find a Doberge cake in Paris.  However, after a little googling, I realized that is strictly a New Orleans cake.  It's not made anywhere else.  The recipe was based on the Hungarian/Austrian Dobos cake, but I couldn't seem to find any of those in Paris either. 

There are some things that you can't get in Paris

SO, sticking with the American birthday theme, I searched the city for the Mr.'s next dessert of choice- cupcakes.   However, I came out empty handed in this endeavor as well (everything is closed on Mondays here).  Then I made an attempt at finding an ice-cream cake.... yeah right.  After roaming around the city in the pouring rain, I decided an American birthday cake was just not in the cards.  On  to patisseries (not too tough of a defeat, I must admit).

The patisserie did have one or two options ..... 

Or nine or ten..... 

 

Great patisserie in Victor Hugo circle in the 16th

As delicious as every single one of those cakes looked, I had to keep in mind that the Mr. generally does not like French pastries (I pray that I will develop this gene one day too.... I, unfortunately, LOVE pastries, French, American, Portugese, I don't really discriminate). But, please don't panic, I was able to find something I thought he could choke down.

Parfait! Tirimisu. Happy birthday!

You may be thinking, why an American birthday when you live in France once in your life? But don't worry, we are just saving the French fare for a real chef and plan to celebrate again at a date TBD...

Sundays in the Marais

I love Sundays in the Marais.  Strolling down the quaint streets of this lively and diverse neighborhood that comprises the 3rd and 4th arrondisments of Paris is quickly becoming a Sunday tradition for us.  

Rue des Francs-Bourgeois

Today, we tried out a new creperie, Breizh Cafe.  A fabulous little restaurant with great food and a chic atmosphere.  My chorizo and fromage buckwheat crepe was delicious.  I love that they had a smaller portion size served in bite size pieces.  (This made me feel less guilty about ordered the salted butter caramel crepe for dessert....).  All washed down with a cup of the house cider.  Delish!

After a late lunch, we strolled around the area and did some window shopping. I fell in love with this little store and their adorable display.

Se Magnifique!

 

 

As for the rest of the weekend, we enjoyed meeting up with some of Park's friends from HEC.  We met Peter and Caroline for Champagne in the 6th (St-Germain-Des-Pres area) on Thursday (after getting turned away from La Cremerie, dying to go there) and then had a night out with other friends on Friday.  Park's friend Russel took us to a fabulous wine bar in the 1st (near the Louvre).  We will definitely be returning there for dinner soon. It looked spectacular. 

We spent the rest of the night at the Irish pub "Frog and Rosbif" (Roastbeef? I still don't get it).  They have a little brewery right in the pub and brew six of their own beers.  It's a fun place with an upbeat atmosphere.  Although I would be happy sitting in a wine bar all night, pub time is tres important to the Mr.  It is growing on me too...

Winter Soldes (Sales)

 And then there was shopping.... 

Because this was the last week of the winter sales in Paris, I felt it was my duty as a responsible wife to take advantage of the low prices (sales happen only twice a year in Paris, January and July).  Let's just say, I was VERY responsible....  

After a lot of field work, three designers stood out as the best:  Maje, Ba&sh, and Sandro.  I started my fashion hunt at oldest department store in Paris, Le Bon Marche, which also houses one of the best gourmet food stores in Paris, La Grande Epicerie (another story...check to the food page soon).  This is where I discovered Maje.  (I actually didn't "discover" Maje at LBM, I have been peeking into the window at their boutique store across the street from my laundry mat for the past two weeks.  However, seeing that I look like a homeless person when I do laundry pulling a grocery cart full of dirty clothes, I thought it would be best to keep doing laundry seperate from shopping excursions.)   ANYWAY, Maje certainly did not disappoint.  I found the most perfect military jacket that I have been searching for for the past two years.  The Mr. calls it my Janet Jackson coat.. this coming the guy that still wears his LL Bean pull over from Freshman year of college.  I am still in love. (with the jacket... ((and the Mr.)).

Next I took the metro over to Printemp, a smaller department store across the street from Galleries Lafayette.  This is where I discovered Ba&sh.  Another fantastic French designer.  Needless to say, I continued to be a very responsible wife here too. 

And last, but certainly not least, came Sandro.  Sandro was the best.  The best clothes, the best sizes, the best of the best.  I was at the peak of my shopping high after leaving Sandro (think high wasted skirts and button detailed silk blouses).  And then it happened.... there I was, sitting on the metro heading home feeling so proud of myself.  I had battled the masses, gone to multiple department stores, seen everything and made well informed purchases.  And then I started texting.  Before a knew it I had missed my metro stop.  Startled, I jumped up and rushed off the train .... without Sandro.  I made it up a few steps before I realized the bags weren't as heavy as they were before... and then it hit me. The agony. The defeat.  I would never see that bag of brand new perfect french designer clothes ever again.  Not my best moment as a Mrs. in Paris. Luckily for me, I am married to a wonderful Mr.  who spent the rest of the evening trying to cheer me up.  He reminded me that in the end, they are just clothes.  Far worse things happened to people.  Will I go back and try to rebuy the treasures that I lost? Probably not.  Will I ever leave something on a metro again? Probably so.  Did it remind me how lucky I am to have such a great Mr.? Most definitely.  So, I guess the moral of the story is that clothes are just clothes and they are replaceable, but having someone to help you through ups and downs of life, no matter how big or small, now that is irreplaceable.

Continuosly Captivated

A very sunny day in a cold winter Paris.

 The sun finally appeared today.  The inspiration I have been waiting for to put on my boots (my new, G.Lafayette boots nonetheless) and explore a new part of the city. (I must admit that I was also inspired by a "Turbo Fire" work out DVD infomercial that I accidentally watched this morning.  The only bad thing about Slingbox is that the times that I want to watch American television it is usually 2 AM in the States and nothing but infomercials are on).  ANYWAY...  

Today it was flowers.  That little bit of sun made the same flower shops that have been sitting down the street every day seem like brand new hidden gardens that needed to be explored.  My favorite thing about Paris is that I am continuously captivated by everyday nuances.  From the boulangeries (bakeries) on every corner to the flower shops that scattered throughout the neighborhoods,  I am absolutely riveted every time I see one.  I have to stop myself from sliding on my iphone to take pictures because I remind myself that this is just everyday life in Paris. Maybe I will get used to it. I hope not.

 

Luckily for me, the Mr. loves flowers just as much as I do. I think that is one of his new favorite things about having a Mrs., an excuse for flowers in the apartment.  After searching several shops, I fell in love with a little store near Avenue Victor Hugo (a fantastic neighborhood just south of the Champs-Elysees....all of the fabulous shopping minus the tourist overload).  

 Seeing that the current apartment is 15 square meters, we don't really have an abundance of space for flowers.  I decided to go with a single white hyacinth potted in an adorable little tin covered in moss.  It is amazing what one little hyacinth can do for a place our size.  Smells divine! (although probably not after the Chinese food I am going to attempt to cook for dinner, per request of the Mr., don't expect to find that little rendition on the Food page...I am willing to bet that Chinese is not my specialty) 

Simply in love. 

 And then I fell in love two more times (well three if you count the Chanel earrings).  First, the paper store:  Caractere.  Total divinity.  I didn't think it was possible to fall in love with paper after going through a wedding, I thought I had seen it all. Over the past five months I have flipped through dozens of sample books (Crane, William Arthur, Embossed Graphics etc.. ) OH was I wrong.  Paper in France is like hearing Celine Dion for the first time after a life of listening to Katy Perry (no offense, I love her new song, but Celine is Celine).  The bottom line: the paper in France is sublime.  If I haven't written a thank you note to you yet, you are in luck!! Albeit a little late, the stationery will be stunning. 

And then, the linen store:  Reve Blanc.  A fine linen lovers dream.  The first time I stayed in my mother in laws guest bedroom, I knew I had fallen in love with fine linen.  You know, the kind of bed that is so beautiful you don't want to sleep in it?  And then, when you do finally convince yourself to sleep in it, it is more comfortable than it is beautiful? That's the kind of bed I long for.  Unfortunately, a love affair with fine linen is a difficult one to pursue as a newlywed (the Mr. does not share the love for fine linen that he does with flowers).  This is where Reve Blanc comes in... a Yves Delorme outlet.  Outlet isn't even the correct word, because it is a beautiful little shop in Rue Cler (great neighborhood at the foot of the Eiffel Tower), not a big warehouse full of unwanted goods.  It carries current lines, not just the discontinued stuff; yet, it is highly discounted (see that what I mean? even outlets are captivating in Paris).  And of course there was a vintage shop right next to the linen "outlet" and I fell in love for the third time of the day with some Chanel pearl and gold clip on earrings... praying they will still be there when my birthday rolls around... in July.... ANYWAY.... back to Reve Blanc.  After a wonderful afternoon talking to the shop owner who raved about her recent trip to New Orleans, I will forever love Yves Delorme Serpentine Blue.  Our first real linens as a Mr. and Mrs. in Paris.

Exploring Portugal

Our first weekend getaway as a Mr. and Mrs! We set out in search of a little adventure (and sunlight) for a break from the current cold, rainy Paris.  Adventure we got, sun, we did not.  Portugal is a beautiful country full of rustic charm.  It made for a nice change of pace from glitzy Paris (for the Mr. that is.... I certainly do not get tired of glitzy Paris, or really anything modified by the word glitzy).

After a very bumpy flight, we touched down in Lisbon and spent the next two days exploring before we took a train up to the Northeastern coastal city of Porto.  We spent the day in Porto roaming through some beautiful old churches and learning about Port and wines from the Douro Valley.  A great trip topped off with a phone call from two our best friends telling us that they had just gotten engaged! Congratulations to Katie and Hagan!  Now if we can just persuade them to do the honeymoon in Paris....  

(See the Adventures page for more pictures from the trip)

Galeries Lafayette

Galeries Lafayette - Main Store

In search of boots:  both pair of my boots were lost in the move... how do you lose boots?? If anyone can do it, I guess I would be that person. Anyway... I went to the famous Paris department store today in search of replacements.  Galeries Lafayette is a huge department store consisting three different buildings- the main store, the home stores and the men's store (which also houses the gourmet food store... heavenly!). Of course the moment I walk in the store I hear a man speaking English to a customer, "Yes ma'am, the sale starts tomorrow. Nothing is on sale today." Of course it isn't. 

So, naturally, I head to the gourmet food market instead.  Now, most people complain about writing wedding thank you notes, but I must admit I actually love it.  It gives me an excuse to go to a beautiful coffee shop and actually have a reason to linger and it also makes me feel very productive. Love feeling productive. I found my favorite little store in the gourmet market, I call it the cookie shop. Genius idea - it's a store that sells only fresh, hot chocolate chip cookies (and lots of different varieties of chocolate chip... with nuts, dark, white etc...).  I enjoyed my cookie and coffee and wrote a few notes. 

Of course this inspired me to check out the wedding dress department.  I guess a girl never gets over that obsession. I thought I would after my wedding, but clearly it hasn't set in yet. 

Hot Mulled Wine and Notre Dame

First, a fabulous quote from a T&L article that eloquently describes how I feel about my new city: "Every cobbled lane, every streetside café, every patisserie window seems to have been art-directed by some impossibly savvy set designer; every passerby apparently costumed by a couturier. Paris spoils you for everywhere else."  Totally agree.

LOVE hot mulled wine, especially on a cold day in Paris.  Today, we decided to take advantage of the pretty (although cold) day and spent the afternoon exploring the city.  We started the day by grabbing a fallafel in the Marais at As du Fallafel (as Zagat calls, "one of the most delicious inexpensive meals in Paris" .... although I am going to have to disagree, I'll take an even less expensive fromage crepe any day over a fallafel...).  Next, we checked out the Musee Carnavavalet, a museum of the history of Paris.  I loved seeing all of the beautiful furniture and rooms that were decorated to imitate the different eras of the city's life.  And the ceramics were divine!!  I wish my everyday china could look like that.  The museum is in the old Hotel Carnavalet, one of the most outstanding examples of architecture in the Marais.

After the museum, we walked over to Ile St. Louis so the Mr. could go to Berthillion (most famous ice cream shop in the city).  It was 35 degrees today so I passed on the ice cream.  Don't worry though, there was a great looking cookie store across the street so naturally we stopped there too.  The final stop was Notre Dame.  That's where the hot mulled wine came in.  I grabbed a glass from a vendor on the street before we went inside the cathedral.  It was piping hot and delicious! Notre Dame - what can I say? It speaks for itself.  Great end to a great day.

Love how small this giant building makes me look. 

First day in Paris

On the first day in Paris, we took a stroll down the Champs Elysees. Lights were still up from Christmas, so it was really beautiful.  It was quite brisk! Thank you, Mary for the ear warming headband!!

Stella

Our first date night in Paris. How can you beat steak frites? We went to a neighborhood restaurant, Stella.  It was fantastic. 2005 Bordeaux for 18 Euro.  I'll take it!

Avenue Foch

The current digs - 15 square meter one bedroom.  Very top window on the left with the shade down.  Beautiful building but move can't come quick enough!

FROMAGE

So far, my favorite thing about Paris.  There is an amazing fromagerie near our place.  This is a great picture that the Mr. took over Christmas.  I could live off the chevre!